I was looking for some cheap shields for my Arduino board, and stumbled across a very inexpensive proto shield. A well known seller with good reputation had it laying around for only 7,65 $, so it couldn’t be that bad.
Well, after a couple of weeks it arrived in the mail. And here are a few things I noticed:
Looks like it’s rusted and kind of old?
Not even close to nice solderings…
Some plastic is melted off?
Well, its not worth that much and it actually works, but for how long?
Whats most annoying is how the seller can say that its Quality and New!
DHT11 is a cheap and easy to use temperature and humidity sensor. But since it’s digital and only uses one pin there is a great library for it!
Of course it has some problems compiling on Arduino 1.0 and the one I found on the arduino.cc playground had problems. So I modified it, and put both the library and the example in a nice and easy to unzip package. The example sends data on serial back to the pc, so it looks like this when posting results:
Credit goes to the arduino playground for the library and example code.
In this tutorial I’ll try to show you how to easily tell an arduino what to do from a C# program using serial communication. The only thing the C# program does is send a byte to the arduino, and the arduino program will then set pin 13 to HIGH or LOW.
Lets start with the C# sourcecode, it’s written in C# Express 2010 which you can download for free here. Get the C# project files:
I tried to comment the code so that it should explain most of the stuff going on. But it’s pretty basic, you select the current comport then hit Connect. If you selected the correct port that the arduino is using it should now be connected. The textbox only takes numbers, writing text there will only result in it being converted to bytes.
When you click Send it will try to send the contents of the textbox to the arduino. In my example code I used “0″ and “1″ for turning off an on the LED. Lets look at the Ardunio example:
void setup(){
Serial.begin(9600);// Define the led pin as output
pinMode(13, OUTPUT);}void loop(){// Read data from serial communicationif(Serial.available()> 0){int b = Serial.read();// Note, I made it so that it's more sensitive to 0-40% load.// Since thats where it's usually at when using the computer as normal.if(b == 1){
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);}elseif(b == 0){
digitalWrite(13, LOW);}
Serial.flush();}}
What the program does it’s listening on the serial port. And when it receives a “1″ pin 13 goes HIGH, and if it receives ”0″ it goes LOW. Pin 13 is in most cases a LED thats on the arduino board, so you only need a bare arduino to test it. And if you don’t know any C# and just want to use the program to control a arduino I’ve created a zip file containing only the .exe file for the program:
I always wanted to make something out of the microphone sensor I got, it’s just been laying in a compartment-box until recently when I got the idea of a music beat blinker.
Basically it just reads the analog value from the mic and converts it to a 0-1023 value, but since the microphone sensor I got is meant for 12 volts, it only ranges from 0 – 5-600 on 5 volts. But it works just as good, only it’s not as sensitive as it should be. When playing music that is never a problem hehe.
The microphone sensor I use is one I found on eBay some time ago, just search for “Arduino Sound Sensor Module” they cost around 5$. And are very easy to use, only ground it and feed it with 5 volts and stick the output to a analog input on the Arduino. I’ll also post the program code for the Arduino, it’s the same thats used in the video below. If you want to make something like this yourself using my example, you only need 5 LEDs or more. And just wire them to the digital pins 2-5, and of course the mic to analog 0. Code example can be found in the bottom of this article.
Here is a video showing the LEDs blinking to the music.
int micValue =0;// Store the readings here.void setup(){// Settings the pins for output to leds.
pinMode(2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
pinMode(4, OUTPUT);
pinMode(5, OUTPUT);}void loop(){// Lets read from the mic
micValue = analogRead(0);// Then choose what leds to turn// on and off.if(micValue > 410){
digitalWrite(2, HIGH);}else{
digitalWrite(2, LOW);}if(micValue > 520){
digitalWrite(3, HIGH);}else{
digitalWrite(3, LOW);}if(micValue > 580){
digitalWrite(4, HIGH);}else{
digitalWrite(4, LOW);}if(micValue > 610){
digitalWrite(5, HIGH);}else{
digitalWrite(5, LOW);}}
For only 16.90$ you get a Arduino Nano V3 clone from dealextreme!
Ever since modified electronics stopped making the pico I’ve been looking for another arduino in the same price range and size, and now dx got just the right one.
- Digital I/O Pins: 12 (D2~D13) - Analog Input Pins: 8 (A0~A7) - TTL serial data receive and transmit pins: RX/TX - PWM Output Pins: 6 (D3/D5/D6/D9/D10/D11) - Microcontroller: Atmel Atmega328P-AU - Small mini-B USB for programming and serial monitor (cable included) - Supports external 5V~12V DC power supply or 9V battery - ICSP header for direct program download - Cable length: 108cm
I’ve stumbled by this neat little sonar sensor on eBay a few days ago, I’ve had some bad experiences with other similiar ultrasonic sensors so I was kind of skeptic to this one. But for the low price I couldn’t resist. Anyhow, it turned out to be a great sensor. It’s accurate down to 1 cm, which is perfect and in most cases more than enough. You get it for around 5$ on eBay.
Only problem I ran into when using it with arduino was the library, got some nasty compiling errors. So I changed a few lines in the library and made it work with Arduino 1.0 and older arduino IDEs.
I just got the new wifi card I ordered from dealextreme, and what suprised me was that it was bundled with a Benini Linux Live Disc. And from that linux distro you can actually run a wifi password cracker. Also comes with a simple guide to cracking WEP/PSK etc. I tried on my own router with WEP, and it found the key within minutes!
It only costs 23.8 USD, and IMO its worth it!
- IEEE 802.11b, IEEE 802.11g, IEEE 802.11nup to 150 Mbps raw transmission rates
- High 1000mW transmission power for ultra long range operation
- Supports 64, 128, 256-bit WEP, WPA, WPA2 security mode
- Supports WMMTM (Wi-Fi Multimedia), BT3, Software AP (Access Point)
- USB 2.0 connectivity
- 2.4GHz-2.484GHz frequency
- Detachable antenna
- Operation range up to 500m (indoor) / 1000~2000m (outdoor) – manufacture rated
- Supports Windows 98SE, ME, 2000, XP, X64, Vista, Mac, Linux
- USB cable and 2* drivers CD included
Yup! I just got Cyber Clean goo. Tried it on my Acer 5820 laptops keyboard and other small and dusty spaces, it does work. But if the space is too small it won’t go entirely into it, therefore not reaching deep enough to clean the dust.
Anyhow, it cleaned my keyboard nicely. It actually reached between the keys on my laptop, but not on my Logitech keyboard.
All in all, it’s a okay product. Not as revolutionary as they claim.
We are a few guys playing on my minecraft server and wish new players welcome! Server is located in Norway, it’s limited to 25 players atm. Whitelist is enabled, so please send me a pm, or an email. My email adress is stigern (at) gmail.com. You can also register on our forums and apply there.
Common sense is our main rule!
Only running a few mods with bukkit. The most essential mods, like /home and such.
Rules: 1. Do not steal, or destroy others creations. 2. No Griefing. 3. Do not lit forest on fire, if you need to. Ask a OP for permission and plan it wisely. 4. No Cheats(noclip, item spawner, etc). 5. No Random Attacking. PVP Allowed if both parts agrees. 6. Chop down a tree? Plant 1-2 new =)
Server specs: Core2Duo E8400 @3Ghz 8GB Ram 750GB HDD 12/5 MBit Connection Uptime 24/7 with UPS
Server adress: stigern.dyndns.org OR 95.34.9.193 Default port 25565. Update 14.12.2011:
Server is still running, and now using minecraft 1.0 with bukkit and a few mods. New members are still welcome!