ImmersonRC Vortex

Category : RC

So, I thought I’d share a video a friend of me recorded while we where on our FPV trip.

There is also a exciting crash in the end!

My Makerfarm Prusa i3v 10″

Category : 3D Printers, Electronics

Thought I write a quick review of my Makerfarm Prusa i3v 10″.


Of all my printers this is the one I’m most satisfied with, mainly because of it’s large build area and speed. It’s also easy to modify.

I’ve changed a few thing on it, to improve the quality and speed:

Wider spool holder


The on that came with it wouldn’t fit all my different rolls of filament, so I printed out this part from thingiverse. Basicly just makes it hold wider spools, fit’s perfectly. Make sure you print it will high infill rate, I used 80%.

Aluminium heat bed mount & isolation


I used a thin sheet of glava isolation which greatly reduce heatup times, and a aluminium bed mount. The bed mount makes it more rigid as large wood sheets tend to flex. You can find glava or similar rock/glass isolation at your local hardware store. Makerfarm sells the aluminium bed upgrades. Click here to get it.

Astrosyn stepper motor dampers


Not so easy to see in this picture, but it’s impressive how quiet it became after I mounted these to my X and Y axis motors. Haven’t bothered to install dampers to my Z axis motors yet, since they aren’t running all the time while printing.

I also added washers to all my screws holding the motors in-place, this reduces pressure on the wood pieces. Not sure if this is necessary but I felt the small screw head was drilling it’s way into it.

These are the dampers for Nema 17 steppers. Since Astrosyn does’t normally ship to Norway I had to contact them and arrange a deal.

E3D V6 with 0.5mm nozzle

IMG_2968 IMG_2966

This one is a major improvement! Faster print speeds and better quality. My main bottleneck now is the extruder mechanism, when running at extremely high speeds it will slip. I had to cut the extruder fan shroud to make it fit on the e3d, but apart from that it’s a easy installation.

You also need to modify your firmware, I got mine from makerfarm with E3D support added. You can download it here.

Is windows taking forever to show the contents of Downloads folder?

Category : Windows

Mine does, and it’s varying from 10 seconds to almost 30 seconds. It’s very furstrating since I frequently open this folder to find whatever I downloaded trough the browser.

There’s a very simple fix to this problem:


Right click on your Downloads folder and select Properties, then choose the Customize tab. Choose “General Items” from the drop-down box and hit Apply!

That’s it.

Wanhao Duplicator i3 mods I’ve done

Category : Electronics


I’ve had my Wanhao i3 for a few months now, and I must say it’s not perfect. I wasn’t expecting a perfect printer either.

But there are a few very annoying issues that needs to be fixed IMO, even tho many users have had no big complaints. My major struggle on this one are uneven bed adjustments. I can have a perfect print, and the next time I print it screws up at the first layer. It’s almost like I have to re adjust for each print.

You might be thinking that this is my first printer and I’m just not used to this, but I have been using 3d printers since early last year and now own 6 printers. And my latest in the collection is the Wanhao i3, and I feel I’m quite familiar with bed leveling. Not claiming to be an expert.

Anyhow, these are the mods I have done so far:

Heatbed isolation.

This can be done several ways, but I choose a rather quick fix for it. Simply cutting a cork mat I bought off ebay, and taping it to the underside of my heatbed with kapton tape. This helps on heating up the bed faster, and makes for a more evenly distributed heat pattern.

MicroSD to SD card adapter.

Easy fix, you can find one here. I used some adhesive tape to keep it locked in place on top of the electronics box.

LED lights.
ledextruder ledtio

Many ways to do this one, but I used a pair of led strips with adhesive tape on them, and a 1W led emitter on the extruder. Just make sure you order some 12v ones.

Z-Axis stiffening.
screwdetail2 screwdetail

Link to all parts are on this post on thingiverse. As you can see on the first picture I have added two threaded rods and stiffens my Z-Axis. This mod I would really recommend, makes the whole printer much more rigid, resulting in higher quality prints.

After you have attached the threaded rods and nuts, you need to use some angling tool to make it perfect 90 degrees.

There are other useful parts in that post too. And I also recommend printing the front and back Y brace. And adding a ziptie to make the bed belt go more evenly.


This summons up all mods I’ve done to my i3 so far. It’s still not as good or reliable as I want it to be, but it’s much better.I’m far from done, my next mod will be a replacement of the hotend part with a all metal one from Swiss Made. It will be interesting to see how it performs with that one installed.

Merry Christmas!

Category : Stuff

Just a short post wishing you all a Merry Christmas!


I also had some time to print some decorations with my 3d printers, nothing fancy, but they are decorative? Aren’t they?




Got a Chinese only Youth router from Xiaomi? And want English firmware?


Category : PC


Well, I did!

Seems like sellers are shipping their routers with different firmware’s. Some come with Chinese only and some with a option to change it to English if it haven’t been done already.

If you are one of the unlucky ones who got one with Chinese language only, keep reading! I’ll show you how to flash your router and change it to English. This guide is for the mini version of the Xiaomi router, the one powered by a micro usb.

If you haven’t bought one, I can recommend this seller as that unit came with English firmware.


Let’s move onto the guide:

Download english firmware and keep it somewhere on your disk.

Then logon to your router, it’s default address is, now you will see something like this:

Proceed by pressing the blue button, and this will show up next:

In the first text-box you enter WiFi ssid, and second box is WiFi passkey. The click the button to proceed to next step.

First text-box is the router “location”, really not important. Whats important is the second one, which is the login password for administrating the router. The check-box underneath is to copy settings from WiFi, which makes the password for login exactly the same as WiFi passkey. Not recommended, and should be something else! Then click the button to proceed to next step, router will now restart and show a orange led, wait until it’s blue and refresh, or reconnect if your on WiFi.

Now login with your password. Then click arrow.

You will now click the second text up in the middle of the screen, which is highlighted in white bold text. Second click the orange circle. Then the first button (grey button) under the version number in blue.

Now choose file and select the English firmware, and click the blue button to upload it to flash memory.

It will now show this while it’s upgrading to new firmware, give it some minutes. The led will turn orange again and blue when it’s done. It might actually be in English when you logon next time, but if it’s not I’ll show where you can change it.

Navigate to the same page where we found the firmware upgrade button, but this time scroll down to the bottom.

There should be a drop-down text-box which you can select English language, and it will change to English!

You now have a English Xiaomi Youth mini router!


Xiaomi Youth Mini Router – English Firmware!

Category : PC



I was looking all around the web for this firmware,  since mine came with Chinese and no option to change it in the router gui. Luckily a Chinese sellers from aliexpress sent it to me!
So I thought I could share it here, so that if anyone other needs it they won’t have the same struggle finding it.

PS, this firmware isn’t english by default, it requires you to go into settings and change language. There are several videos on youtube explaning this.

Click here to download

Please leave a comment if you have questions.

I’m still alive! :P

Category : Stuff

I’m just writing this short post to let you know I’m still here, and I’m still checking my blog regularly. So it’s not that I have given up on it, I’ve just been busy lately.

So hang on, I’m going to post more projects etc soon!

ESC sync issues with SimonK?

Category : RC

I remember back some time when SimonK had some sync issues with some NTM motors, but that got sorted out quickly by Simon. So I have not really thought much about it till recently when I was going to build me a small fpv quad.

It seems like high pole count motors are especially prone to develop sync issues. This caught my attention since my new quad are going to use some 2204 size sunnyskys with 16 pole count, which is considered a high count (some say more than 12 is). So I dug around the forums and found this thread which several users are experiencing everything from sync issues to burnt motors.

bickie @ rcgroups: I noticed when running this motor it stutters when running (all other motors are fine on the same ESCs – HK F10A + SimonK)

It seems like several user are experiencing the same problems using the Hobbyking F10 esc and simonk. After some more reading it become quite clear it isn’t the ESC itself, but the firmware. The bottom line is to change to BLHeli, so it seems for now. Since it’s most likely a firmware issue I guess it isn’t long time until Simon fixes it. BLHeli also supports the popular Afro ESC series from hobbyking now!

sskaug the developer of BLHeli wrote this great article explaining the sync issues! Read it. You might also be interested in my guide for flashing BLHeli. It’s the same principle for all ESCs except you need to change to the corresponding .hex file.

If you’re not into flashing there is a alternative, the Hobbywing Platinum series. They are special designed for multirotor use, might be worth checking out if it seems interesting.

Build Log: 250mm FPV Quad

Category : RC

The 250 size FPV quads are getting more and more popular, and with good reasons. They are very handy in size, and quite capable. So of course I had to build myself one. There are many finished frames to choose from, some pricey and some not. But I went with the solution that gives most bang for the bucks imo. The 3 layer carbon frame from HK in combination with wooden arms.

Parts List:

I think that summons up the main parts, of course there are stuff thats not listed like screws, nylon standoffs etc etc. The reason I made the feet 270mm are because of the props reaching the frame if I made em 250mm. Mostly because I mounted the motors using the cross, this way I loose around 1 cm. If I had used aluminium arms I could have use M3 screws from inside the arms.

Since a regular power distribution board couldn’t fit I had to come up with some alternative. The solution was a piece of copper sheet, which I cut two thin strips from.  Should hande my amperes nicely:

Well, after soldering on a JST and a XT60 connector I closed up my plates for now, I don’t think I need to open them up again, I can access most stuff from between the plates.